I've seen some people say to use a loud noise whenever their husky is doing something wrong so they learn that if they do said thing, they'll hear the loud scary noise. Well Nikko bites feet and pant legs, hard. Almost constantly. So the other day I thought, what about using an airhorn when he bites feet? Would this be ok or would it instill a fear in him he shouldn't have?

I mean it could work.... I don't think they're meant to be used in that close proximity though.... I'm not saying it will, but I figured it could damage hearing if used in an excessive way, like reinforcement training???

Added on the fact that you want to find something you can use in ANY situation. I don't know about you but I don't want to be in a social setting at let us say my inlaws or a friends house and have to say:

"Hey guys you might want to cover your hears, I'm about to blast this air horn because my pup is being a PITA"

Or just flat out blasting around someone else.... I don't know I'm sensitive to that kind of thing but if someone blasted an air horn around me I would be annoyed .

Just my POV here.... The best tools are what ever you can make work for you.
~Chris~

I would definitely keep it away from his ears as best I could. My thought is the loud horn would scare him to stop him from biting, and I would only have to do it a couple times. I'm just trying to find something to stop the biting. I understand he is a puppy and all that stuff, but nothing else we do is working. And we're trying everything lol

Does he have squeaky toys?

Does he like them if he does?

If so find a dilapidated one and rip the squeaker out. If he is triggered by the sound of a squeaky toy that should be enough to break a fixation for a second and have him look at you and wonder what that was all about.

You can even use NO and BAD when you do it and have Nikko sit.

I've known a few trainers who buy packs of squeakers specifically to use as a training tool... I've been told they work better on puppies then clickers.

It doesn't have to be an over powering noise. I use snapping. When they hear me snap my fingers they tend to know I want something or a correction is coming soon. If I just snap and don't say anything they know it means sit.

Breaking the fixation is half the battle at that age.... Then following through with a punishment and remaining consistent.

~Chris~

Yea he loves his squeak toys. And sometimes he responds to no and sometimes to snapping. It all depends what he's biting. When it comes to feet, he tunes me out completely it seems. Sometimes his squeak toy will work, sometimes it won't. As far as punishment goes, there's not much I can do other than ignore him. I try to go to another room but he just runs faster than I move and by the time I get to the room to shut the door he's already in, back on my feet. I try putting toys in him mouth, but after a couple seconds he drops it and goes back to the feet. Ignoring won't work since he'll just dig deeper into my feet, and it hurts like hell haha

How old is Nikko? Do you have antlers and bones that are high value? This could revert his attention elsewhere. Chris is very intelligent and seems to be hitting the nail on the head.

But, ignoring is more than just letting him do it - its getting up and walking away. I would even go stand in the bathroom with the door shut - nothing was more frustrating to my Cato than not being able to get to me. He learned really fast that biting = disappearing mom. he wasn't fond of that.

I would be concerned that this type of method would make him timid around loud noises. I personally would not use this method, but that's just me. I would rather use a little physical correction and redirection than scaring the bejesus out of him.

I would strongly recommend against this. The pup will associate a loud noise with negative behaviour , if they are outside peeing or playing and a carn honks???
Not to mention the neighbours, or like Chris said, your guests?

You need to be more stubborn than your dog, if he bites, putting a toy in his mouth is rewarding him, you need to take something away that he likes for him to associate it as bad. Like yourself. If he bites, stop him say OUCH really loud, or give him a good poke (It works when Tika is completely fixated), make him sit and say NO, Stay. and walk away, If he follows, you repeat the action, until he gets it through his head.

You have to keep consistent and be very very stubborn.

I do not recommend, support, or anything else in regards to loud noises for huskies. I don't like those things and they have better hearing than I do

Hi
I'm a soon to be husky mom and posted a few questions, but I've been lurking here almost religiously. If it were me, instead of removing myself, I might try removing him? If you have a room with little to play with, like a bathroom you don't bathe him in or a laundry room, maybe you can try short time outs where he gets nothing to play with/chew. I would not use an airhorn, you wouldn't use one on a baby, right? Just my two cents!

At this young age, they are still learning acceptable behaviors. Removing yourself is instant punishment, while removing him involves touching and is not as instant as removing yourself. Physically putting them in a time-out in a designated spot, to me, is for older dogs
that know they are being naughty and need to be removed and "reset". But that's just my observation. Kale always got more out of me leaving the room, than me physically moving him to another room. Too much time passes and at that point he had no clue why he was being confined to the bathroom.

Air horn would be extremely cruel.

The snapping has worked pretty well for me too. I have a rather loud snap and have incorporated it as a marker when training -- I use it mostly for getting Kodi's attention. Kind of my "hey, listen up" or "look at me."

I'm going to try Megan's advice on walking away though. I do that when he bites during play, but haven't physically separated him from me. Just like Cato, my pup can't stand it when he can't get to me.

hypers987 wrote:

At this young age, they are still learning acceptable behaviors. Removing yourself is instant punishment, while removing him involves touching and is not as instant as removing yourself. Physically putting them in a time-out in a designated spot, to me, is for older dogs
that know they are being naughty and need to be removed and "reset". But that's just my observation. Kale always got more out of me leaving the room, than me physically moving him to another room. Too much time passes and at that point he had no clue why he was being confined to the bathroom.

ahh..I see, that good to know, thanks!

I don't snap I do the click, click noise with my tongue, like people make to horses, and it works perfect.

Thanks for the input. I won't use it. Like I said, it was just a random thought. At this point I am ready to do whatever it takes to stop the biting, humanely of course.

ksutton wrote:

The snapping has worked pretty well for me too. I have a rather loud snap and have incorporated it as a marker when training -- I use it mostly for getting Kodi's attention. Kind of my "hey, listen up" or "look at me."

I'm going to try Megan's advice on walking away though. I do that when he bites during play, but haven't physically separated him from me. Just like Cato, my pup can't stand it when he can't get to me.

He doesn't do it anymore - but he does sit with my hand in his mouth...weird dog. he literally pus my hand in his mouth and falls asleep.