Hello. I am new to this forum but hoping I can find some help with our new husky pup, Cody. We did our research and certainly don’t mind putting in the time and patience but my 2 month old pup can really get to biting your ankles, feet and arms quite roughly. He even pierced my skin with sinking his teeth into my arm so much. I have read different things and been trying for two weeks but I want to ask people which way seems to be best. One article said to cry and express with a soft cry that it hurts like his litter mates would of done and then he should stop. If he doesn’t stop it said to turn your back and ignore him and if it doesn’t stop then leave the room but this isn’t easy because when you leave the room he goes for your ankles. One article said to say with a stern voice no bit and then place a toy in there mouth. I just want to make sure I do the right method because I am worried he may be aggressive when he gets older. I read that the biting is normal until around 1 year but I just want to make sure I am training my pup to be a good husky with kids and other people.

Let me reassure you that Huskies very rarely become vicious, there almost has to be some intent by the owner to make one vicious.  

You should be at the end of his teething, see this link, (there's a chart part way down) so that should not continue to be a cause.  

Some pups are more demanding than others and it becomes a contest of wills to convince them that biting is NOT the way to get your attention.  If you're having no success with the steps you've mentioned so far then I'd suggest a simple "time out"  This requires that you have someplace where you can get to him that he can't leave.  (A play pen for dogs, for example.)  You enter the play area and you stay just as long as he's calm - as soon as he exhibits any behaviour you don't want, you tell him "No!" and leave.  For how long?  Start at a couple of minutes and increase the time by a minute or so each time you leave.  *YOU* are his prized possession (or you should be ) and he's going to want to be around you and play with you and it shouldn't take him long to figure out that biting means no play, no attention at all!

Huskies dont really bite all that much and i would suspect that most Huskies that have bit people are either mixes or someone went through alot of effort to make them mean. And puppy biting is not really a good indicator of adult behavior.

Something ive done with ankle biters is use my heel to lightly tap them with my heel by stepping a little higher where your heel taps them under the chin. It has to be intentional enough they know your not playing but not to the point you hurt the dog. Ive always used a combo of crate, redirection, and ignoring. Ive used the heel method when my dad bred Tibetan mastiffs on one very specific dog. I consider the heel method a "last resort" even though its really not all that different from Cesar milan poking a dog in the ribs.

Spider was a very bitey puppy. Not ankles, she went for noses. Of my 4 she was the most bitey as a pup but the most likely to run away as an adult. I think shes the least likely to bite of the 4. My german shepherd on the other hand was a "perfect" puppy, and as an adult he has bit 7 people.

Thank you both for your advice. My husky is half German Shepard but I will certainly look into your methods. He’s good all day and then gets to biting by the end of the day. He does it more to my kids though so trying to show my kids so he calms down with them. As soon as he sees my kids he gets more hyper and biting. I think I purchase the play pen and try that because the ignoring doesn’t work as he just keeps at your back and then comes in on the corners. He does eventually stop with me but my kids can’t hang in as long as it takes for him to stop and then they start run away. I know he thinks they are playing but they’re not.

Sounds like an energy issue. Since hes half GSD maybe wear him out with toys before the kids get home. Mine like the chicken slingshot and the nerf sqeaky footballs. Ive also let them chase rc cars. Toys are a good way for the kids to learn how to redirect him. Hes way too young but puppy classes may also be helpful.

The race car actually sounds like a great idea. It’s worse at night when it’s been hot all day because he doesnt want to do anything and then when it cools down he’s super hipher. I’ll take a look at those other toys too. Thank you so much.

I've had my share of my Sib puppy's play biting. Same as how you described it when we got him at 4 months. First I used the mother's high-pitch squeal (worked some of the time), redirection and time-out only worked for 2 minutes. Then I was so desperate, I used a water gun (worked right away, but he'll come back). Socializing him in the dog park helped him to learn from other dogs that hard biting would cause him to alienate his playmates (I give credit to that, but on the other hand they also learn bad things from other dogs in the dog park!) After his neutering at 8 months, his behavior improved a lot in all aspects. His play biting was softer but still annoying. I then came prepared with some hot sauce on my hand and that helped. Meanwhile I've also taught him "Drop it!" When he was getting to my ankle, I told him "Drop it!" it worked so I was able to move my foot away. .
I do know that serious biting is usually preceded by growling, but I still think that play biting hard after 12 months is not OK, and better stop that to help prevent real biting as an adult.

@laifran growling and or barking is a warning and an intimidation tactic. Usually a barking or growling dog wont bite unless there is some outside circumstance. Its the quiet statue still dog with a glare and stiff tail you should worry about. Its why when you use dogs for guarding you have your noisy watchdog that summons the gaurd dog.

So with puppy biting you have 2 options. You can either teach the pup not to bite or teach them when to bite. Really as an adult you want both but for now one works. I would say with teething your better starting with whats ok to bite.

Right, I forgot to mention- I did provide chew toys for his teething. Frozen carrot was a great one because it helped to numb the pain. As for teaching when to bite, I've never wanted a guard dog like a police K9, so I'm staying away from that area. Thanks for the discussion.

Thank you everyone for the help. Honestly this is really hard. There are times I can’t take it and I feel bad but put him in the backyard because I loose my patients. I’ll keep trying these methods. I have bought so many toys to try to redirect him. He did like the remote control but have to get another one as it’s broken already. I’ll try the frozen carrot because that does sound like it could feel good for him. Unfortunately dog parks are closed in Cali still. I might concern the hot sauce because the squealing doesn’t seem to always work. Sometimes when playing with toys he will just decide to go for your arm or ankle instead of the toy.

Nice post...I really like it.