i have a my 12 months old Husky who has agressive problemes when we want to pick him up or bring him to his cage to go to bed or to put him in the car when he doesint want to get in on his own.... give you an example today my dog didnt want to get in the car so i went to pick him up and sundlly he Grawled at me and tryed to bite me ??? last time it was 11 at night and my dog was on the ground laying their and i told him come on boy its time to go to bed come and he didnt move so i went to go get him up and started growling at me and tryed to bite me so now this has become a probleme we are scared now

Please don't be afraid, instead, contact a professional who can help you. He's going through a teenage phase, and although not fun, can be corrected. also please use the search at the top, numerous threads here on how to handle a misbehaving husky. Good luck and keep us posted.

Max, I'm surprised at Renee << tease >> my first suggestion is to keep a leash on him all the time.  It's a lot safer for everyone when he wants top be cantankerous.  You don't have to reach into dangerous territory, just keep a steady tension on the leash and he'll come / go as you want.  BTW, it doesn't have to be a "normal" (6 ft/2 metre) leash, one that's been cut down to a couple of feet is plenty, you just want to be able to get the leash and not have to try to "grab the collar that's way to close to his teeth.

I have a girl who is very food possessive and I've found the trick with her is not to back up or give in but to actually move into her territory.  I've been concerned about my ankles a time or two but she will eventually give ground which is all I need to issue a correction when she can hear it.

If you are scared, then I think a professional is probably the best answer.

I know with Loki, I used food a lot to convince him to do things like coming inside, going to bed, and going to his crate. After many months, he does go to bed on command and he gets in his crate without being told when I put on my shoes (sometimes even when he does not have to do it). I start by treating on each task, then slowly made him do more to get rewarded. For example, get up when laying down, treat. Follow me to bedroom. Treat. Sit in bedroom. Treat. Now when I say go to bed, he goes sits in the bedroom for his treat. I slowly removed the other steps.

Lol Al, yes I said it, I don't want to hear about another going to a shelter, because of fear of their dog. I'm not saying you will, but things get out of hand and huskies are great at trying to push their limit when their people are stressed. Al and Jessica gave you some great options.

You need to get to the bottom of the problem, yes he's a teenager, but dogs don't growl for no reason. Huskies, I have discovered come in 2 types of packages, package one true terrors up to about 12 months, then great dogs. Package 2 is a great puppy, then a hellion around a year old. I strongly encourage you to see a life isn't free type trainer or a positive reinforcement trainer. At this point your guy needs a retraining program. Combining Al's and Jessica's advice will help in the positive training, the leash helps you to not get bit. A behaviorist vs a trainer may be a better route. Also are you giving him ample play, mental and physical exercise? A tired husky is a well behaved husky. Lastly have you taken him to the vet to rule out any medical problems? I do wish you luck and please let us know how things are going.

Max,

Just curious, how long has he been exhibiting aggressive tendencies?

Did it start small and build up, or is this the start of it?

How much exercise does he get on a daily basis. Maybe he is just lashing out with excessive energy that he doesn't know what to do with. At that age, "the Teenage phase" you need to up the exercise, up the mental activity, and up your patience. Huskies can have several different ways of expressing their defiance and destructiveness during this phase, which includes and is not limited to aggressiveness. I agree with inside the house hold, your pup needs to be tethered to you so you can correct certain behaviors at a safe distance. And it is to appropriately and safely lead him around the house. Huskies like to follow you and watch what you are doing, maybe he will find some entertainment in seeing your daily activities.

If you don't already, look into jogging, biking, sledding/scootering, skating etcetera. Huskies at that age need a lot of energy burnt out. Their little bodies are becoming stronger than puppy hood, and they need to be properly drained out and tired. This may not be an instant fix, but it can eventually lead to aggressiveness to die out or slowly diminish.

Please let some sort of professional aware of your issues, and let them know your plan and listen to their advice as to what you should also do. They can at least help you learn what sets your dogs aggression into motion, so you can learn the signs an know how to deal with him.

Please seek a vet. Even though some aggression issues can be solved by a slightly changed routine, it may be an internal problem causing him pain.

I hope any of this helps. Please update! ~Welcome to the forum ~

Are you sure he's being aggressive? Or just throwing a temper tantrum? Kavik will bare his teeth, roll on his back, throw all his weight onto the ground, and growl at me when I tell him to go in his kennel. He never bites, just looks mean and tries play a dominance 'game'. If he does whack me with his teeth, I scold him severely because I don't put up with any form of aggression. I literally drag his butt all the way to his kennel, kicking and screaming. (No, he does not hate his kennel. Usually he goes in when asked without a fight. It's only sometimes that he does this because stubborn husky. Am I right?)

The best thing you can do is not let them win. If they start acting mean when you want them to do something, don't back off or they will continue that behavior because they find it gets them what they want. Huskies are known to be manipulative and this is why they need firm owners.

As mentioned above, exercise helps a lot with this problem. Also, when they do what you ask them to without a hassle, it's good to reward them and throw a party so they associate following the command with something positive.

Max, You've repeatedly said "tried to bite" so now I have to ask, has he ever made contact, broken the skin, etc?? As noted in the previous post, if he knows you're afraid of him then he's going to get his way until you decide to put a stop to it.

Someone mentioned NILIF (Nothing In Life Is Free) There's a threadthread on here that discusses NILIF but not too well. So I'm going to give my take on training ... (( I can hear it now, "oh noooooo....." ))

When your dog does what you want him to you reward him. Rewards based training.
When your dog does what he wants to then it's time for a time out. Punishment based training.

NILIF is actually a form of reward based training carried to the extreme (kinda like the idea of "Tough Love" with a teen age human kid).

If it's time to eat the you want your dog to set and stay. If you don't set and stay, the food goes back up on the counter for a while, possibly all night/day.
If the dog wants to go out, then set and stay (now this sounds boring). If not then we back off and wait. This is also assuming you have a house trained dog who isn't going to "drop it" just because he cant get out.
If your dog wants attention and nudges you then ignore him. Give him a few minutes and then call him over, get him to lay down and then pet him.
You get the idea, it doesn't have to be set, stay or laydown, just something that you want him to do and he doesn't get his reward, food, a walk or attention in my examples if he doesn't.

The dog gets NOTHING without earning it in some fashion.

The flip side to this and is often used with NILIF is the concept of time-out. Dogs are pack animals, Husky's in particular want to be with their pack (and just in case you missed session one, that's YOU) When their behaviour is so bad that they won't answer to a verbal correction, it's time to put them someplace where they're alone (give them a chance to think about it, so to speak).
The best place that I've found is someplace where they can see you (all) but can't participate in the "fun".
This is also the reason that I'm a strong advocate of keeping a short leash on a dog in house (for training purposes). When it get's to be time for a time out, you don't want to reach down and grab a collar, even the best natured dog might bite out of surprise and one who's misbehaving might bite just because. With a short leash on them, all you have to do to enforce a time out is to take the leash and tied it to something they can't drag around with them. When they've cooled off, then you let them back into civilized company.