Anyone have any recommendations on lawn care products that aren't just a bunch of toxic chemicals? We have to be really careful around Shadow (and I don't really want the other two exposed either), but our lawn looks like crap right now.

yup you have to be careful - I just put peat moss on one of my vegetable beds and stupid dog started eating it!

What kind of "look like crap" is it - weeds, thin, pale, lots of white patches (aka snow mold)...

I'm scared to use anything on the lawn. I swear my dogs are part goat and love to pull the grass out by its roots. I discovered that I can kill fire ants by pouring a very large amount of boiling water on the ant hill.

We have a ton of weeds and dead spots. We don't want a pro golf course quality lawn, but we do want it looking decent.

We had the same issue last year when we first bought the house. The front lawn, as we found out, has a grub problem that had caused dead spots and a huge infestation of mouse-ear chickweed. If you don't know what that is, Google it and you'll see how invasive and fast-spreading it is. At one point it covered about a quarter of our lawn. I don't much care what the back yard looks like, long as there's a little grass, but since that's where the dogs will play and it's not easily seen by people walking by then it's not a huge concern if there are holes and dead spots, but the front yard's appearance does matter to me, something my husband will probably never understand.   

For grubs I'd suggest introducing nematodes to your lawn. They're living organisms that eat grubs. It may take a few years to fully get rid of the grub problem but I've heard positive things about it.

If there are any organic landscapers around you, maybe they would have some tips on nontoxic solutions for fertilizing? I'll probably use Bayer's season-long grub killer next month and Scotts fertilizer this week, but only on the front lawn, where Layla doesn't really go. Once those products are watered into the soil, it should be safe.

If you want to kill the weeds I would stay away from any of the commercial lawn care products - most herbicides can be quite toxic.  If you wanted - Roundup would be relatively safe though I would apply it several hours before a rain and then keep the dogs off until after the rain.  here's a link re: glyphospate safety:  http://pmep.cce.cornell.edu/profiles/extoxnet/dienochlor-glyphosate/glyphosate-ext.html

Note that the surfactant may be more of a problem then the glyphosate itself.  I don't know if the Rodeo formulation for use in aquatic situations might work on weeds though you might consider that.  Discussion re surfactant for glyphosate:  http://www.hort.uconn.edu/cipwg/art_pubs/GUIDE/consideration.htm

Another weed control possibility is a propane torch weeder (depending on how large a lawn you need to renovate.
This one uses a large propane cylinder:http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200584783_200584783?cm_mmc=Google-pla-_-Snow%20%2B%20Ice%20Removal-_-Torch%20Kits-_-29193&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=29193&gclid=CLTDpoj3370CFQ5gMgodYk0AqQ
There are others that use a little 1 pounder throw away:  http://www.amazon.com/NICKEL-PLATED-BRASS-STEEL-GARDEN/dp/B008CF8AN4/ref=zg_bs_3480723011_6

Me - I leave the weeds, they stay green in the heat of the summer (I don't know if Maryland is considered northern grass - dormant in summer or southern grass - dormant in winter - whenever its dormant, its brown.)  We also have under-seeded our grass with dutch white clover - its low growing, takes mowing well and stays green all the time.  Also bird's foot trefoil - it's the little yellow flowers by the roadsides in mid-late summer.  With mowing the bird's foot has a tight mat of tiny green leaves.  We leave the dandelions alone - our lawns are full of them and it is a very cheery sight in early May.  And very amusing to listen to husband growl and gnash his teeth over all the little fluff balls and stems that lay down for the mower and pop up the next day to make everything look unkempt  Besides, the dandelions are good fodder for bees when there is little else available.  I do shoot the plantain with glyphosate - stuff has dull green grass killing mat with sticky looking stalks, don't like it.  Also, a monoculture of just lawn grass is much more vulnerable to diseases - I call ours an "herbal" lawn.  Euphemism, I know.

As for seeding and feeding...for existing grass, provided your lawn is not too extensive, you might try a liquid foliar feed - like miracle grow, peter's or Jack's.  mix up a concentrate, use a hose spray attachment.  Don't let dogs on the grass until its dry or even better, time the application for several hours before a rain on a warmish (above 50° F) day, let it rain then dry and then let the dogs out.  Or, what you really want is just a source of nitrogen for greening - alfalfa, cotton seed or blood meals all are good sources of nitrogen BUT costly (you can always get alfalfa rabbit pellets and throw them around but I'll bet the pups will chow down - maybe water it in to dissolve them.)

Another fertilizer possibiltiy with low toxicity is Milorganite.  It stinks.  I use it in spring, summer and fall surrounding my vegetable garden and daylilly planting to keep the deer away (works well for that PROVIDED there is other forage available, which in winter, there is not.)  Info re pets and children:  http://www.milorganite.com/en/Lawn-Care/Using-Milorganite-on-Lawns/Children-and-Pets.aspx

For seeding bare patches:  Choose appropriate grass (sunny, shady, high traffic etc., look for high proportion of perrenial grasses - annual rye grass will die over the winter but give you quick grass this season)  Loosen the soil surface for an inch or 2, sprinkle on your seed (I strongly recommend mixing in some dutch white clover), rake into the soil, cover with straw (messy looking but highly effective) or compost (though, I'll bet the doggies will munch on that, too).  The key to lawn establishment is keeping the seed moist which, depending on the weather, can mean light watering several times a day.  There are lawn patch mixes that have green colored mulch incorporated but again, even though it might not be toxic, I'm pretty certain an inquisative, munchy dog would nibble and then you'd have to re-seed.  Once the seed is germinated, for the first week or two, continue at least twice daily watering.  After that, reduce to once daily for several weeks and gradually reduce to a few times weekly - just monitor it.  If your soil pH is wildly off neutral, you may want to correct that...we have highly acid soil and doesn't seem to matter.  

Mow high - 3 inches is good for plant growth (husband doesn't - says it looks shaggy and has to be mowed too often) and encourages deep roots.  Helpful in times of drought.

Did not mean for this to be a treatise but...it is what it is, I'm wordy  

Good luck with your lawn (and I'll have to follow my own advice - when hubby sees what Ami has done to the lawn where is trolley is...)

Just saw Liz's post - nematodes are good - to check for grubs, try pulling up a patch of grass, if it lifts easily (ie roots have been chewed off, then you have grubs. Or lift a shovel full in a couple of places - you should see 2 or 3 grubs per shovel full. Also, moles are indicative of grub problem)